Thursday, July 26, 2007

Why I love Venice

My happiest memories of Italy are of Venice. So, in my journey to recapture my love of Italy, I must write about Venice.

So many things. I must have had an early fascination, arguing for the naming of a high school prom 'Venezia', building cardboard striped poles and gondola silhouettes.

One of my favorite movies being 'Summertime', with Katherine Hepburn and Rosanno Brazzi. And I have stayed at the Pensione Accademia, formerly the Villa Maravege, of the movie. I know where the shop was with all the 'antique' ruby goblets.


That first year, December 1969, a water taxi ride in the cold night, the dark canal, the twinkling lights of the chandeliers seen in the palazzi along the Grand Canal.

In 2000, our stay at the Europa & Regina. Walking through the misty evenings, coming out into the deserted campi, knowing that behind the flaking stones of Venice are the treasures of a legendary past.

In 2002, introducing our daughter to Venice, and the joy of having her fall in love with the city.

In 2003, recovering from my accident, deciding to spend ten full days in Venice, just taking it one hour at a time, taking it easy for the first time on a vacation. Discovering the Locanda Montin, a perfect gem of a garden restaurant with attentive service and exquisite food. And in 2003, taking that fateful day trip to Verona.

Angel and I always say that when you step off the train and come out of the terminal, seeing the broad steps disappearing into the waters of the Grand Canal, you know you are in a place like no other on earth. Unlike other Italian cities, no one seems to be in a hurry, no one seems to be trying to own the sidewalk.



I love the quiet of it. No motorinos, no loud noises. Just the slap slap of the water, people calling to each other. The fruit and vegetable boat pulled up to a fondamento, the equivalent of a produce stand floating on water. The early morning walks to Piazza San Marco, before the popcorn and the pigeons and the people.


I love the Lagoon, and the islands in it. San Erasmo, Burano, Torcello and Murano. Torcello is so wild and unspoiled.

And I love the light. The incredible shifting light. In any weather, the light.

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